When I decided to go on my first road trip in October 2016, there was no plan. All I knew is that I had to get out of here, explore what is out there, and answer the call of the open road. The only certainty was the general direction (KwaZulu-Natal via Mpumalanga). With only a small bag packed, some mouthwatering snacks, a glossy travel magazine, and all the cash I had, I jumped in the car and cruised down the N17, watching much of Boksburg disappear in the review mirror, as the traffic gradually thinned out.
After driving for quite a while, I grabbed some breakfast from the N17 Sasol Plaza garage (between Kinross and Evander on the R546). I’m not sure if it was the fresh chocolate chip muffin that whispered something to me, or my general boredom with the monotony of heading in one direction, but I decided to turn towards Standerton via the R546.
My second stop, after driving through places like Evander and Charl Cilliers, was the intriguing town of Volksrust, which seems to ooze history. You don’t realize it, unless you live in that part of the country, but the town that boasts an old steam train on display actually sits on top of an impressive mountain (no doubt a military advantage once upon a time, with forests blanketing its slopes). As I drove out of Mpumalanga and meandered down the N11, with Volksrust now behind me, turning onto the R34 towards Utrecht, I deliberately slowed down in order to really absorb the sheer majesty of this part of the Zulu Kingdom, wondering how many battles might’ve been fought here. –This is called the Amajuba Balele Route, by the way. Do we really realize what a beautiful country we live in?
Well over 400 kilometres from home, I was getting tired of driving (although I remained captivated by my surroundings), and had to start thinking about where I was going to sleep that night. That’s when I came across eDumbe (formerly known as Paulpietersburg, founded in 1888), nestled between forests and mountains. As I drove through the small rural town nothing grabbed my attention, so I followed an ascending road less than 10km outside the town, and there it was… Fels Retreat! –No, I’d never heard of the wedding venue and B&B, but something just told me to go check it out, so I did.
Fels Retreat was originally a farm called Scheepersrust, belonging to Mr. Hortmann, according to a framed brief history in its charming dining area. It was subsequently bought by the Catholic Church in order to establish a mission station, named Dumbe Mission. –Dumbe meaning a wild potato-looking indigenous plant. The farm was later sold to a Mr. Gevers who later sold it onto Mr. Johannes in 2002. Johannes restored the buildings and added facilities, renaming it Fels, meaning Rock.
My host, Ms. Sarina Hayward, invited me in with open arms and prepared a charming little en suite room for me. The retreat offers various accommodation options, from the most affordable to the more luxurious offerings. –My room was exactly what I required for an unplanned trip: clean; comfortable; peaceful; and within my meagre budget. There’s no distinction, however, in the level of hospitality that all guests enjoy.
The grounds were immaculate and gardens peaceful. Ask the friendly grazing pony if you don’t believe me. There’s several outbuildings and a picturesque little chapel on the property, but my absolute favourite was the massive oak tree in the back. The tree, which is well over a hundred of years old, if memory serves me correctly, towers over you in a way that reminds you of your place in the greater scheme of things. Standing adoringly at its base felt like sitting at my grandmother’s feet soaking up the kind of wisdom that has stood the test of time. Unforgettable!
Although I had the option of requesting lunch and dinner from the kitchen (as these meals were not included in my accommodation fee), I stumbled upon a wonderful restaurant and farm stall called The Wishing Well in town where I enjoyed a mouthwatering chicken and mushroom pizza and fresh guava juice. Let’s just say the meal was so good I would have gladly paid more if there was a mistake in pricing on the menu. Adjoined to the restaurant, which is cosy and welcoming, was a store that provided everything from ready-made frozen foods, locally made gifts, a variety of cheeses and so on.
Other than the secret whispers of a giant gnarly oak tree, I will never forget the deep sense of freedom and adventure that I felt on that trip. Nor could I ever forget the inner peace that washed over me one morning as I looked out towards the mountains, listening to cheerful birds and watching a train in the distance, quietly snake alongside a mountain, disappearing and reappearing behind trees before finally being swallowed by the nearby lush forest. –The poem, At Peace with myself, was inspired by these emotions and surroundings.
I don’t know if my ageing little car would make it all the way to Graaf-Reinet, or Alexander in the upper corner of the Northern Cape, but I will forever remember my first scenic road trip, and the warmth with which I was received by Ms. Sarina Hayward and her wonderful staff at Fels Retreat, eDumbe.