It is my turn now. Tammy swings my board towards the shore and thrusts me into a breaker.

“Up you get!” she shouts.

I lift my chest, whip my feet under me. I stand up, my arms outstretched like I am flying. The wind and sea suddenly synchronise to make a smooth hissing sound. I am racing on a wave, riding the ocean. A thrill runs through me. I can do it!

The wave hits a side chop of water, tries to throw me off, but I bend my knees, point towards the front of the board like Tammy showed us. I ride the bucking, rushing wave all the way to the shore. I leap off lightly as it hits the sand.

“Nice, Yonela. Woww!” Tammy shouts behind me.

Far away the boy, Bongi, is grinning white teeth. The first time I’ve seen him smile. I can’t help it – a huge smile splits my own seriousness. I wade through the water back to Nomkhita and Tammy. Nomkhita gives me a solemn high five.

“Good girl,” she says.

“This one!” Tammy shouts. I throw myself onto the board and paddle for all I’m worth. A little push from her and I’m up and riding.

“Whoo hoooo!” I can’t help it, a crazy hoot blasts from me. This is easy.

I trained for this on a rusty barrel on a bumpy farm track. I am a surfer chick!

My board hits a side wash and sends me hurtling into the sea. I sink down, down. I panic, scrabble for the surface.

***

Tell us: Will Yonela overcome her panic? How?