Just how far would you go for a recipe? Turns out it took me 163 days, 7,033km (about 540km of that was spent walking), 81 families in 62 towns, across four provinces.

I get a lift as far as Petrus Steyn. I have no idea which town I am going to accost next, let alone who my next hosts will be. It is a rather chilly morning. No-one is up and about. I see a large building with a few doors that look as if they might lead to separate flats. Since my caffeine addiction is crying out I boldly knock on one of them.

‘No, dear,’ answers the lady when I ask about coffee shops. ‘But you’re most welcome to join me for a morning cup. It’s so cold’.

She invites me into her home. I am immediately drawn to the massive dollhouse in her lounge and notice a few smaller ones around the room. We realise that we have not introduced ourselves yet. The lady says, ‘Almal noem my Pophuis Tannie. Jy kan maar ook.’

I tell her that my nickname is uBuntu Girl and see her aha moment – she has read about me in Huisgenoot. She offers me accom-
modation and suggests the town of Lindley as an interesting and beautiful place.

Spurred on by Pophuis Tannie’s enthusiasm and love for the area in which she lives, I decide to follow her advice. I get a lift in a taxi. One of the commuters, Thabo Mokheti, and I are so engrossed in discussing what uBuntu means that he ends up paying for my fare just to keep the conversation and the momentum going. When we finally part ways he tells me to go and find Johan Colyn who is a very active member of the Lindley community.

With a name in place, I march into the local video store. Small towns are great like that. You need to know anything? Find the local hairdresser, butcher, or video store.

The guy behind the counter gives me rough directions. Very rough. I find myself on a dirt road, going uphill, over a bridge ‘past those trees that lean to the right, on the left-hand side next to the pond, but be careful of the dogs at the house with the entrance that’s not quite straight . . . .’ It is not that this is a long walk, it is my uncertainty that makes for tentative steps. Eventually I come across a sign that may or may not be the right house. Very rough directions indeed.

But then again, after 163 days on the road I am beginning to understand that there is no wrong road and that there is no need to hurry. Besides, the driveway to the farmstead is shady and the day is hot.

I arrive at a gate. Oh, well, nothing for it but to enter. Hello doggies!

As I walk towards the house I see the man. He’s not frightened so much as deeply surprised. His dogs don’t usually allow people to just walk onto his property, Johan Colyn tells me. He asks what my business is and is a little amazed by my story.

In the house I am introduced to Joh-Mari, who asks, ‘Have you had something to eat?’ And over glasses of red wine, and a meal of chicken, vegetables and salad, I regale them with uBuntu stories, and they entertain me with stories about the locals. After a few more glasses of red, the home-made Cape Velvet is presented with great pride. The secret ingredients are happily splashed onto my rough notes. I feel the intoxication setting in and remind myself to hic share this lekker hic recipe with one or two people.